The industry of RC has lots of different facets; there’s really something for everybody. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering will be the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned in relation to driving sliding surpasses grip, more power does not necessarily mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I had to scoop one approximately see what all the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any level of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Just How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for quick learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning while watching motor or around the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Lots of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips from the roller bearing
This drifter has a great deal opting for it; well manufactured, plenty of pretty aluminum and rolls in at a very affordable price. Handling is good also after you get accustomed to the kit setup, plus it accepts an extremely number of body styles. There’s also a lot of tunability for people who like to tinker, which means this car should grow along with you as the skills do.
The D4’s chassis is really a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. They have cutouts at the base for your front and rear diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. The majority of these can be used as mounting things such as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are quite a few left empty. They may be used to control chassis flex, although not together with the stock top deck; an optional one must be found. The design is a lot like an ordinary touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and ultimately the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are all readily accessible and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.
? Other than a number of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. Just one A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are utilized, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to increase them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to handle camber and roll even though the front uses an interesting, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This method allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.
? Something that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is the serious volume of steering throw they may have. Beginning with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so that as close to the edges from the chassis as is possible. This results in a massive 65° angle, enough to manage the D4 in the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend most of their time sideways, I wanted an excellent servo to take care of the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
While not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I needed it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 relies on a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. An enormous, 92T 48P spur is attached to the central gear shaft, in which the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high above the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability on the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included allowing the use of a variety of different wheel and tire combos.
? To present the D4 a certain amount of beauty, I prefered 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. It is a beautiful replica of the car and included a slick list of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the way to paint it, nevertheless i do remember a technique I used a little while back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a try of pearl white about the underside, but painted the fenders black on the outside. After everything was dry, I shot the outside using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the final result … plus it was easy. That’s good because I’m a very impatient painter!
In The TRACK
For this particular test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I found myself heading there to perform a photo shoot for the next vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and obtain some sideways action?
The steering about the D4 is fairly amazing. As I mentioned earlier, the throw is really a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. Even CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. While it does look a little funny using the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an incredible job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the proper direction. This is, partly, on account of the awesome handling of your D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I understand that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your own drifter, you may control the angle of attack along with the sideways motion through any corner. I discovered Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to complete exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle changes in change the angle of your D4 when and where I needed. Sliding in a little shallow? Increase the amount of throttle to get the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up somewhat and also the D4 would get back in line. It’s all dependent on ? nesse, along with the Novak system is designed for just that. I have done really need to be a bit creative using the install in the system because of limited space about the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving connected touring cars for a while, it can have a little becoming accustomed to knowing that an auto losing grip and sliding is the proper way throughout the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you obtain it, it’s beautiful. Taking a car and pitching it sideways by way of a sweeper, in the mean time keeping the nose pointed in at below a couple of inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, and also the D4 does it wonderfully. The kit setup is nice, but if you are as if you need more of something anything there’s lots of what you should adjust. I actually enjoyed the automobile using the kit setup and yes it was only an issue of a battery pack or two before I was swinging the rear round the hairpins, across the carousel and to and fro throughout the chicane. I never had the opportunity to strap battery in the diffuser, but that’s something I’m eager for.
There’s little that can be done to damage a drift car they’re not really going everything fast. I did so, however, have an problem with the front belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the very top deck. Throughout the initial run, it suddenly felt much like the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept along with it, seeking to overcome the issue with driving, but soon had to RPM Traxxas Revo parts it in to actually check it out. Through the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly maintained by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square about the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, once the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes down in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a lengthier screw with several 1mm shims to space the bearing out a tad bit more. Problem solved.